Split is a port town with a lot going on. In summer it is packed with tourists piling out of the big Jadrolinija ferries. Split is a point on the map for transit where many tourists simply pass through. A mix of the old history and the modern developments makes Split a more metropolitan city than Dubrovnik. The Riva seaside area has just been newly renovated. Its location makes it a central area to stay in order to make a few day trips to other areas nearby.
Diocletian Palace is a Unesco site and surprisingly doesn’t resemble a palace or even a museum. It is the beating heart of this city where you will find all of the most popular cafe’s, bars and shops inside a fortress like structure that has been here for thousands of years. Built in the 3rd century AD there is plenty to explore so get lost and take your time in the alleys and squares.
Stari Pazar Market is where you can pick up some local produce and some freshly baked burek, that delicious soft pastry stuffed with spinach and cheese.
Marjan is the forest area behind the town of Split where you can work your way up through the hills via a hiking trail. Shake off your Hvar hangover and if you make it to the end of the trail you will be rewarded with a swim in the cool, quiet waters of Kašjuni Cove. You can start the walk conveniently from the city centre where there is a stairway called Marjanske Skale in Varoš. You can find the stairs behind the Sveti Frane church. It’s a scenic walk for all levels of ability and it’s only a 10 minute trek to the first watering hole at Vidilica cafe. From the cafe you can continue following the trail. Keep your eye out for little chapels and land marks along the way.
Make a day trip to Krka National Park to swim in the waterfalls and walk on shaded trails through the woods. The Skradinski buk is the longest waterfall found on the Krka river and is powerful all year round. Get your hiking shoes on and feel the cool spray on your face in no time. Follow the 875 m trail from the Lozovac entrance or start from Skradin and walk the trail for 4 km. Skradinski falls are the ones you can swim in but there are many other falls and hiking trails to explore.
Many tour operators in Split will be offering guided trips to Krka National Park. Save yourself the extra cost and catch a public bus independently to the town of Skradin where the park is located. These run directly during the peak season but check the timetable the day before so that you can be organised to make the trip there and back with no hassle. Entry costs vary depending on age and what areas of the park you want to see. Make sure if you are 18 or under you bring an identity card so that you can receive the discounted price. Entry fees can be found here
Hostels tend to be quite overpriced during peak season particularly when Ultra is on. If you are travelling in a group it may be cheaper to ‘split’ the price of an Airbnb property or even a hotel room rather than booking individual dorm beds. Receive a discount on your Airbnb booking by using this link.
Konoba Stare Grede is where the local workers around Split go for a casual lunch. Main meals start from just 45Kn or 6 Euro. Hearty, home cooked food that doesn’t disappoint.
Domovinskog rata 46
Villa Spiza is located inside the palace and is a favourite among the locals for its fresh seafood and traditional dishes served in a casual setting. The low prices make up for the wait time on food. Mains start at around 35 Kn or 5 Euro The menu changes daily so you will never get sick of what they’re plating up.
Tavern Fife, in Matejuska is just a short walk from the centre. Stroll along the seaside area on your way there to get yourself in the mood for the traditional Croatian dishes that you are about to taste. Hearty stews, meatballs and seafood are all on the menu here and it’s all very affordable.
Trumbiceva obala 11
Sperun is popular with the tourists for its seafood. Get the mussels in tomato broth for something warm and tasty that’s a typical dish of the area. Prices are around 65Kuna or 8 Euro which is reasonable for restaurants around this location.
Tavern Dioklecijan doesn’t look like anything special but the food speaks for itself. This institution has been filling the hungry stomachs of locals in Split for decades. Enjoy sitting on the terrace right above the promenade.
Dosud, 9, Split
Bajamont is hidden in an alley way of the palace and isn’t the easiest place to find. Without signage or a proper menu, dining here makes you feel like you’ve uncovered one of Splits little secrets. Check the menu before being seated because prices vary.
Bajamontijeva 3, Split
Bistro Toc is your saviour if you’re sick of local cuisine. This place has a bit of everything. Thai curries, Mexican tacos and other random dishes make it the stop off you need to get some comfort food from home. Wherever that might be! Dishes start at just 35 KN or 5 Euro. Look out for the red Volkswagen Beetle parked outside.
Šegvića 1, Split
Mala Kate may not boast an ocean view but this back street joint is where to go if you have a serious lunch time appetite. Big portions for low prices, here you will eat your fill. Hearty Croatian stews, roast meats and daily specials will set you up for an afternoon nap on the beach.
Konoba Stare Grede has a menu with dishes starting from just 29KN or 4 Euro. The rustic wooden furniture and stone walls will make you feel like you’ve gone back in time to a traditional Croatian home. Freshly baked bread, local produce and meat hunted by the owner himself, it doesn’t get more authentic than this.
Pub Crawls are popular in Split. Many companies offer tours of the best bars in the city for about 20 Euro. This may sound steep but it actually includes 90 minutes of an open bar tab with unlimited drinks so you’ll definitely get your 20 Euros worth if you’re up for a big night. Considering that drinks in Split are generally over priced, this works out to be quite a good deal and it’s also a great way to meet other travellers.
From Split, get a return ferry ticked to the island of Hvar where the Ultra Music Beach Festival is held every year. Upon your return to Split, take a bus to the beautiful city of Dubrovnik. It’s always best to inquire at the bus station the day before. The bus station in Split is right in the town centre. You can get an idea of timetables here.